In light of a recent undercover video investigation involving treatment of chickens both on the farm and in a processing plant, we went to three poultry industry experts for insight – Dr. Patricia Hester of Purdue University, Dr. Charles Hofacre of the University of Georgia and Dr. S.F. Bilgili of Auburn University.

In a recent undercover video, farm employees are seen, among other things, grabbing birds by their wings and tossing them roughly into cages. Is this common treatment in poultry production?

Dr. Hofacre:

I visit a lot of farms and have been working with poultry producers for 30 years and I’ve never seen that kind of thing. It’s reprehensible. There’s no excuse. There’s no way any poultry company I’m familiar with would tolerate that type of behavior. It’s not appropriate treatment of animals, plus it would result in bruises and injuries that would result in a loss of money for the producer.

It’s been reported today’s chickens are bred to produce breasts so large it’s difficult for them to support themselves and that they wind up laying in their own waste. What’s your view of this?

Dr. Hester:

It’s true that chickens (or broilers as they’re called in the poultry industry) are being bred to produce more white meat because that’s what consumers want. Geneticists have also increased the rate of gain for broilers in order to improve production efficiency.

Heavier broilers generally have poorer walking ability, which can be measured using a scoring system. Studies have developed a “gait score” of 0 to 5 with 0 representing no impairment in walking and 5 representing severe lameness. Research shows four commercial cross breeds of male broilers had gait scores averaging from 1.5 to 2.0. This means that a broiler has an “identifiable abnormality that has little impact on overall function.” Gait scores for female broilers are generally better than males. So, contrary to allegations that these birds have difficulty supporting themselves, scientific study shows the majority of today’s broilers do not have major mobility problems.

Those broilers that do have severe lameness should be culled as soon as it’s noticed by the animal caretaker. National Chicken Council (NCC) welfare guidelines explicitly state that broilers that cannot access feed and water for normal growth and development must be humanely euthanized. Commercial flocks are monitored twice daily and with active culling as described in the NCC welfare guidelines, broilers should not be laying on the floor.

Are older breeds of chickens (slower-growing) healthier? What are the pros and cons of raising older breeds of chicken compared to today’s breeds?

Dr. Hester:

The pros of slow-growing genetic lines of broilers is that they have lower mortality, are more active, and have fewer leg problems than fast-growing genotypes. The cons of slow-growing chickens are that they require more feed to gain weight, produce a smaller amount of breast meat, and can take twice as long to reach market weight. It costs the farmer more to raise these types of broilers; therefore, the meat is more expensive at the grocery store. Although more science is needed, it is also suspected that the carbon footprint or impact on the environment would be less favorable for the slower-growing chickens.

What are the conditions like for the chickens on modern indoor farms? Do they need access to natural light and environmental enrichment?

Dr. Hester:

Broilers are raised on floors covered with a plant-based bedding material called “litter” and have access to clean water and fresh feed that is precisely formulated to meet their energy, protein, vitamin, and mineral requirements. The litter protects the chicken’s feet and provides a cushion when they rest. The litter can also be used as an enrichment (i.e., scratching, dust bathing, pecking, etc.). Wood shavings or rice hulls are common sources of bedding materials that provide opportunities for chickens to dust bathe (a process during which they cower close to the ground and flap their wings). Sprinkling corn into the litter encourages foraging activity.

Broiler houses are ventilated to provide fresh air and keep ammonia levels low. Many have curtained sides. When the curtains are open, the broilers have access to natural light. For broilers grown in totally enclosed houses with solid walls and no curtains, which is more typical of colder climates, artificial light provides the light spectrum that natural light normally provides to allow for appropriate broiler welfare.

Dr. Hofacre:

The birds don’t necessarily need access to natural light. On most poultry farms, they have artificial light. It wouldn’t be any different than somebody who works in an office with overhead lighting. The birds are given night time rest and day time light. When you see photos or video of a lot of broilers inside one of these barns, it may look like there’s not much space. But the birds are given sufficient space to move around and have unlimited access to food and water.

When I began my career as a poultry veterinarian 30 years ago, a lot of turkeys were still raised outdoors. Every fall in Minnesota, which was the largest turkey-producing state back then, we would have an outbreak of avian influenza. It was always linked to migratory water fowl that stopped to eat with the turkeys and infected the flock with flu. Turkeys today are healthier, have fewer diseases and are not left outdoors to be killed by foxes or other predators.

What’s your view of transporting chickens in open-air cages? Some say chickens suffer because of heat in the summer and cold in the winter.

Dr. Hofacre:

A significant percentage of poultry production is in the southeast, so the biggest issue is dealing with heat. If the cages were enclosed it would be difficult to keep the birds cool. Open-air cages allow for plenty of ventilation. When it’s colder, Plexiglas or wooden sides are placed on the front and sides of the trailer to provide protection.

Transport is usually brief – an hour more or less to get from the farm to the processing plant. If birds were allowed to get too cold or hot, you’d have excessive bird death or loss of body weight that would cost the producer money. So, not only is treating these animals humanely the right thing to do, it’s an economic incentive for farmers to make sure healthy birds make it to market.

It’s been reported that a million birds a year are scalded alive because of methods used at processing plants. Can you shed some light on this, please?

Dr. Bilgili:

First of all, it’s unacceptable from an animal well-being standpoint to have broilers scalded alive. We process about nine billion broilers annually in the U.S. The most recent data I’ve seen indicates that about 0.008%, or around 720,000 carcasses, are condemned by USDA inspectors as cadavers or birds that die from causes other than slaughter.

Unfortunately, the cadaver statistics are erroneously interpreted as the total number of birds being scalded alive. This is NOT the case. The number of live birds entering the scalding tank alive should be nil if the National Chicken Council’s welfare guidelines are adhered to. NCC guidelines state that allowing this to happen is a “major animal welfare non-conformance.” Backup personnel are used in all plants to catch any birds not properly killed by the automated equipment before they reach the scalding tank.

Some animal welfare groups are calling for plants to use Controlled Atmosphere Killing (CAK). What is this and what are the benefits or drawbacks?

Dr. Bilgili:

CAK basically involves using a combination of two or three gases (carbon dioxide, argon, nitrogen) to actually kill the birds before slaughter. The reason there’s growing interest in this system is that the birds would be dead before being shackled, which would eliminate some of the welfare issues associated with handling and electrical stunning systems. CAK has become somewhat popular in Europe, although only about 30 percent of the plants there are using it.

We’re seeing some interest in it here in the U.S., especially with turkeys because they’re so much larger than chickens and therefore more difficult for a person to handle. CAK is a more expensive system to install and operate than the electrical stunners. It would require a major investment by a plant to adopt a CAK system and increase the final product cost without much benefit to the processor or the consumer.

Are processing plant line speeds too fast?

Dr. Bilgili:

At plants in Europe and South America they’re processing over 200 birds per minute. Here in the U.S. it’s kept at 140 per minute. We’re all processing the same birds and using the same technology and equipment. Under the new poultry inspection system we were going to increase it to 175 per minute but in the end it was decided to keep it where it is currently. This puts us at a bit of an economic disadvantage with some of our global competitors.

How are chicken processing plants regulated by the federal government?

Dr. Bilgili:

A poultry processing plant in the United States cannot operate without federal government oversight. They must be federally inspected and in compliance with all meat and poultry inspection laws. Each plant has a veterinary medical officer who is in charge of a team of trained inspectors who perform a number of important tasks, including pre- and post-mortem inspection, monitoring the implementation of Good Manufacturing Practices, verifying proper implementation of food safety programs including facility and personnel hygiene and sanitation protocols, and confirming compliance with USDA Performance Standards. It’s a highly regulated business. You don’t see this type of oversight in many other industries.

Why are chickens not included under the federal Humane Slaughter Act?

Dr. Bilgili:

The Humane Slaughter Act was enacted in 1958 and amended in the 1970s. Back then, the poultry industry in the U.S. was rudimentary and basically consisted of small backyard flocks. But, even though poultry is not specifically named in the Act, it does not mean they are ignored from a humane slaughter standpoint. There are many directives and regulations issued by the USDA on humane slaughter that involves poultry and then monitored and enforced by the USDA’s Food Safety Inspection Service on-site inspectors. These inspectors can issue citations or even shut down a plant if they see animal welfare issues.

Should American consumers be concerned that the chicken they’re eating is being raised and processed safely and humanely?

Dr. Bilgili:

Absolutely not. We have good food safety and animal welfare systems in place. When new science and/or technologies become available to improve product quality and safety, the poultry industry is very good about readily incorporating them. We’ve been working hard over the last 10 years in the U.S. to implement a science-based and objective animal welfare program that can be independently verified on a regular basis. Such programs are not common around the world, including Europe.

The poultry industry has come a long way during the last six decades. Can it be better? Of course! That’s our job as poultry scientists to research, assess and apply science-based technology to make things better. I have every confidence that poultry produced in the U.S. is on solid ground from both animal welfare and food safety perspectives.

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The second article discusses the potential lack of effectiveness of those processing aids and how the test results obtained by both the USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) and the industry may be artificially low and are not indicative of what is really on the birds.

We went to Dr. John Marcy, professor and poultry processing specialist at the University of Arkansas, to find out more about this issue.

What about the contention that these chemicals are being used so that plant line speeds can increase?

Dr. Marcy:

The use of these “chemicals,” which are actually antimicrobial interventions or processing aids, has nothing to do with the line speeds. In my time working in or with the poultry industry (since 1975), processing aids have always been a valuable tool for meat processors to clean the birds as they move through the plant as well as keep equipment sanitized so that consumers have the safest food. The use of chlorinated water and other interventions in meat processing actually predates my time in industry. The majority of chemical use, separate from the sanitation function, is part of a multiple-hurdle approach at pathogen reduction as expected by the Salmonella and Campylobacter Performance Standards issued by USDA.

Why are chemicals used in poultry production?

Dr. Marcy:

Put simply, raw food products, including meat and poultry, are not sterile. In an effort to make them and the environment in which they are processed as safe as possible, the industry uses these processing aids to help prevent food borne illnesses.

Both articles discuss concerns around the safety and effectiveness of these chemical interventions. What does a manufacturer have to do to get approval of their product? 

Dr. Marcy:

All antimicrobial interventions are evaluated by the federal government for safety and effectiveness. This approval process includes not only interventions that reduce pathogens on poultry products, but also for equipment lubricants, antifoaming agents, and other substances that work to keep facilities clean. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) evaluates all chemicals approved for use in all food plants. The USDA FSIS evaluates all processing aids used in meat and poultry plants for their purpose and effectiveness, and to establish limits on their use to ensure the meat is fit for consumption. A complete listing of these aids, their use and limits, is contained in a single document here: USDA FSIS Directive 7120.1.

The first Washington Post article discusses the use of peracetic acid as being the cause of health issues experienced by some poultry plant employees and government inspectors. What is it?

Dr. Marcy:

Peracetic acid is a combination of hydrogen peroxide (the same kind you may have in your bathroom closet) and acetic acid. Acetic acid is the acid found in household vinegar. Both the hydrogen peroxide and acetic acid are diluted with water before being used in the plant as an antibacterial treatment. The outcome is that disease-causing bacteria, such as Salmonella, on the surface of the meat and poultry are reduced.

The allowable concentration levels set by FDA and USDA are measured in parts per million. To put one part per million into perspective, it is equivalent to one drop in two full bathtubs of water, or one minute in almost two years.

The second Washington Post article discusses the use of cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC). CPC is an antiseptic that kills bacteria and other microorganisms. It is commonly found in toothpaste, mouthwash and nasal sprays (check the label!).

Are there residues of antimicrobials on the chicken I buy in the supermarket?

Dr. Marcy:

These antimicrobials are diluted significantly when used and break down in water to non-harmful substances. To be considered a processing aid, USDA states that antimicrobials must have no technical effects after they are used, and manufacturers must provide significant data to USDA to demonstrate that is the case. As a result, the use of these processing aids create no food safety concerns; rather, they increase the food safety profile of the product.

Is it safe for workers to come in contact with these chemicals?

Dr. Marcy:

Though these chemicals are approved for use and are used in very low, allowable concentrations, the poultry industry takes very seriously the health and safety of their workforce and all others in a processing facility. There are a number of steps and precautions the industry has in place in order to minimize any exposure to them:

• When diluted antimicrobials are applied to carcasses, they are done so in controlled areas (inside of closed equipment or inside the chiller) to minimize any potential exposure to employees
• In order to ensure proper ventilation, poultry processing plants follow strict guidelines for airflow set by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers. Engineering controls, such as ventilation, are acceptable means to control employee exposure to hazards;
• Workers and companies must comply with OSHA standards, wear personal protective equipment and complete required training programs;
• The mixing of water and antimicrobials is a highly automated process. This ensures that workers rarely come into contact with any undiluted agents.
• Concentrations of all antimicrobials used in poultry processing are constantly monitored – not only in the diluted form – but also in the air. The monitoring tools can detect molecules in the air to determine if there is a need to change the process.

The Washington Post article mentions new regulations that are about to take effect. What does this involve?

Dr. Marcy:

USDA published the proposed rule in January 2012 and, from my perspective, there has been a lot of misinformation about what the rule would mean for the industry and for consumers. In a nutshell, traditional inspection involves USDA inspectors evaluating each bird for quality issues such as a broken bone or a bruise (neither of which poses a food safety concern), while also evaluating each bird for food safety parameters. Under the new modernized inspection system, USDA would continue to evaluate each bird for food safety parameters but would also have more time to do food safety evaluations and provide oversight to the entire process, not just at one stop in the plant. Employees would be trained to evaluate the birds for quality issues thereby allowing USDA to focus on their true mission of protecting public health.

Whether chicken plants operate under traditional inspection or choose to opt in to this voluntary, modernized inspection system, rigorous food safety standards are applied to all chicken products and these products must meet or exceed these safety standards set forth by USDA in order to reach consumers.

The second Washington Post article discusses concerns around the effectiveness of interventions at reducing foodborne bacteria.  Are these chemicals actually working?

Dr. Marcy:

Yes, they are working. Manufacturers of these products do extensive research and must document their safety and effectiveness before any product is approved for use by FDA and USDA. Both federal agencies must review all effectiveness and safety data prior to approving the product. Additionally, evaluation of these interventions is frequently repeated by others in the industry. With the help of effective processing aids and new technologies, the chicken industry has successfully reduced the prevalence of both Salmonella and Campylobacter in all raw chicken products.

The second Washington Post article discusses the need for a neutralizing agent.  What is that?

A neutralizing agent is a buffered solution that makes the solution neutral in pH – not acidic or basic. The thought is that a neutral solution would prevent further activity of the intervention on the bacteria, if present, in the rinsate (the solution left after rinsing).

_{“20130712-AMS-LSC-0628.jph” by USDA is licensed under CC BY.}

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Looking for a heart-healthy protein to incorporate into your diet? Brenda Roche Wolford, MS, RD, one of our food system experts, gives some practical advice for choosing the healthiest, safest and best chicken for your family’s needs.

What is the healthiest chicken to purchase at the grocery store?

Roche Wolford:

Out of all the chicken options at the grocery story, the healthiest option is fresh chicken breast. The white meat (chicken breast) has slightly less cholesterol than the dark meat (legs and wings). It is definitely lower in saturated fats. In general, poultry is a heart-healthy protein. Usually, the less processed it is, the better. Be sure to remove the skin of the chicken, and you will have a really great source of lean protein.

Labeling is so confusing. What should I look for? What about natural, organic, farm-raised, free-range, antibiotic-free, etc.? Is one healthier than the other?

Roche Wolford:

There are a lot of labels out there these days, so it’s important for consumers to understand what the labels mean. Labels like organic, natural, free-range and antibiotic-free are more of a personal preference for consumers. Some of these terms are regulated by the USDA, and others are not. There might be a difference in the taste or quality that the consumer might prefer with certain labels. However, just because it has one of those labels does not mean it is healthier.

For more information on label definitions, please visit our post on food labels here.

Do you have any tips to help us read labels?

Roche Wolford:

A food company can make quite a few claims about their product on the labels. However, the consumer should not let label claims get in the way of their purchase. I know all the terms can be confusing, but what’s most important to know is that chicken is a healthy meat option.

• Look for chicken without the skin. Or if you purchase it with the skin, remove the skin because it has more cholesterol and saturated fat. White meat in chicken is heart-healthy and is generally a good choice for a lean protein.
• If you are purchasing chicken that has been processed in some way, look at the nutrition facts panel. For instance, if you are buying ground poultry instead of ground beef because you think it is a healthier option, double check the label. Ground poultry could have as much fat as ground beef, possibly more, because the processor might include the dark meat and skin when grinding the poultry. 
• Again, read the nutrition facts for chicken that has been processed. Processed food may have added salt, so review the sodium levels. It’s very important to look at the nutrition facts panel when buying any food or poultry item that’s been processed.

Are there grades or classifications for poultry products like beef?

Roche Wolford:

Grading is not mandatory for poultry. Inspection is mandatory, but the grading is voluntary. Grading has regulations in terms of the quality of the poultry. It has to do with the appearance in the quality.

What is “plumping?”

Roche Wolford:

Plumping is a process some poultry products receive where the chicken breast may be enhanced or might have added salt, water or flavoring such as teriyaki sauce. Plumping is adding a mixture of solution, and the presence and amount of the solution will be labeled as part of the product name. However, the label may be confusing. Even if the product says 100% all natural, it may have been injected with a solution. The USDA released a final rule which would require clearly labeling raw meats to which solutions have been added. This rule will make companies more clearly disclose whether solution has been added. This ensures that companies are giving consumers this information in as simple a format as possible. Prior to this ruling, companies could put this information wherever they want to on the packaging, but with the new rule, it will become part of the product description. This final rule will go into effect January 1, 2016. 

Former USDA labeling rule.

Current USDA labeling rule.

Does sodium content increase with more processing?

Roche Wolford:

In general, yes, sodium usually increases with more processing. Sodium is an ingredient that’s used for preservation, but also for taste and texture and to extend the shelf life. Nowadays, consumers are more aware of the sodium content of the foods they’re eating. Most of the sodium in our diet comes from the processed foods we eat, not from the salt we put on our food at the table. Check the nutrition facts label and compare the sodium content to other labels before buying the product. Choose the product with the least amount of sodium.

_{“another lunch” by ella is licensed under CC BY 2.0.}

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